Coveting: H! by Henry Holland collection at Debenhams

I popped into Debenhams yesterday in a frenzied search for an interview outfit. I'm not going to say what or when the interview is as I have a strong superstition that any mention of such details will jinx precedings. It's the only superstition I have so forgive me. (Except for walking over 3 drains. I won't do that.) Shops were closing and I was all 'omgwhatamigoingtowearithastobeamazing' - I'd already gone into H&M and was sort of trying to build an immense outfit in my head of things I already have plus things I'd just bought out of desperation. So I was wondering round the womenswear floor of Debenhams in a slightly more relaxed panic as the opening hours are later there (thank you department stores, thank you) and I had about an hour. It was then that I stumbled across H! by Henry Holland and nearly yelled 'Oh Em Gee!' out loud. Which would have been silly. Because I hadn't even heard about this collection and it's uh-mazing. It's just me, entirely and thoroughly, every single piece in that collection is Rachel Lewis all over. Henry Holland is of course a brilliant designer, my favourite things he's done so far are his stripey block colour outfits for A/W 09:
So insane. You can get the tights fairly easily, he also did amazing alphabetty tights for the typophile in me:
Mmmm. Hosiery and lettering.

So the H! collection carries on in his normal crazy colours/patterns theme, in a very wearable and mix and match way. Seriously, I've never seen a collection where you can build so many different outfits - everything seems to match and wonderfully clash with each other, it's amazing. So my interview outfit quandry was solved - with a few pieces from the collection and other bits I've got, I've got about 3 different options now, of which I'll decide later.

I want nearly everything in the collection, which is bad as I have very little money; but it's all so affordable, it's hard to justify why not to have it all. It's never going to be one of those things where it's like, oh what do I wear this with. Here are a few of my favourites from the collection:
There are quite a few pieces with this crazy floral pattern in different colour ways. I just love the acid yellow of this one. Nothing says 'come on spring, damn you!!' quite like this dress. £30.
These shoes would go well with it too. Very 80's inspired, they also look quite comfy for a heel-connoisseur such as myself. Purple and yellow used to be my favourite colour combo when I was 7. Then I discovered the colour wheel. Clash-tastic :D £35.
There are a couple envelope style clutches, this one coming in bright pink too. I couldn't choose between them; I'd have to buy both. Perfect for zinging up a boring dress. £20.
I love this bag, mainly because it's called The Hobo Bag, and I love the word hobo. I want to be a dandy hobo. (I invented that term, if I ever become a fashion designer (lols) then my first collection is being called 'dandy hobo'. Ha.) £30.
This body is one of the things I bought; finding a body that fits you like a glove is actually quite hard. I don't have a weird torso or anything, but you want one that doesn't turn into a thong (ew) when you sit down but at the same time isn't baggy around the boobs. This one is perfect for me. And a size 10, I was quite excited that I could wear a size 10 body. I just love the colour more than anything, it's a gorgeous shade of purple and it's going to be the foundation of my immense interview outfit. I might do an outfit post later actually. £12. (bargainous, I thought)
Oh em gee! Cycling shorts! Told you they'd be back. They're not exactly lace cycling shorts like the ones I'm still unable to find but in this shade of pink, who cares. I nearly bought them but as they're not for interview purposes, I had to think of my bank account (which is on it's death bed and pay day is still a month away, slightly scared) so it's on the wish list. £8 though, sweet.

This blazer, is actual love for me. It was one of the first things I saw in the collection and I could not believe the perfection. It's just 'soooo cute', which is what I'd say if I was ditzy and american. But seriously, it's got that preppy/boarding school thing going on, made out of hoodie kind of material and purple check lining which, what's that? Matches the purple body exactly? Really? You don't say. I love blazers. I love school-themed fashion. It also reminded me of that outfit Anne Hathaway wears in Devil Wears Prada which is all preppy too. You know what I mean. Where she delivers the book. Yeah. So! This is the backbone which holds my outfit together. Its smart but not in a suit-way. Because I need to be way more creative than a suit dress, I feel. £35. Done. Hanging up right now. I feel smug.
The jewellry is great too. In a totally silly OTT way, I love it. Like this ring. Same purple. Didn't buy it though. But you see what I mean when I say everything can go with everything? £8. Comes in turquoise too.
Oh, this. This is beautiful. It doesn't look like much, but it's genius in disguise. It's called Holey Boyfriend Cardi and it's exactly what I need. Days are still cold and I love wrapping up in big cardi's but I hate all the thick knitted ones that are out with the belts (you know what I mean) and the oversize jumpers are cool but it's supposed to be spring soon and it's hard to rock a jumper when it's hot cold all the time. You need a cardi, layering style. I love slouchy clothes when I'm cold and one of the hottest trends this year is holey stuff. I know right, let's all rips holes in things, but it's going to be massive and this cardi is bucking the trend. It's the perfect spring piece - keeps you damn warm when it's chilly under a coat, but layer it over an interesting print dress/tshirt and you can see the pattern through the holes when it's a bit warmer. I tried it on and stared at myself for about 5 minutes (which is a long time in a changing room) trying to talk myself out of buying it. It's £40 so one of the more expensive items, and it's not interview material so I cannot justify it. Taking it off was painful. I need this cardi. But there's no way I can buy it until the end of the month. And if it's sold out by then, then I will cry. So please, appreciate it, but just don't buy it nation, ok? Nobody buy this. I want one. Just one, in a size 10, keep it safe for me and leave it on the hanger :) Fanks.

Anyway, after pulling myself together, this is the last item on my list. I usually hate parkas. I generally think that just because it's cold, doesn't mean your coat has to be shapeless and slightly farmer-ish. A good tailored coat will save this country from itself. However. I saw this and had a slight epiphany. It might just be because of the purple check and purple buttons (there's that purple again, good times...) or it might be because I saw a tres pretty girl wearing a parka with an amazing ensemble and forgave her instantly. Don't know. But it's cool. And I allow everyone to wear this. £45.

So that's my top pick of the lot. It's all great though, it really is. I was talking to the girl at the checkout and she was saying it's been slow to pick up but now it's gathering sales; I don't see why not, it's my favourite collection anywhere right now. Yes, anywhere. Debenhams seem to be on fire recently though, first the Ben De Lisi collection for Principles which is back (after folding) and also the size 16 mannequins, Debs is going to have a good year I think.

I'll sort out my interview outfit and probably do an outfit post actually; haven't done one in ages. It's not a regular thing I assure you.

The Daily Ampersand Project: No. 21

Ampersand No. 21 is Auto 2, in italic. Really nice quirky font, this. This ampersand was drawn in pencil.

To see the rest of the (Not so) Daily Ampersand Project, click here.

Debenhams: Would you like to see more of me?

I read the other day that Debenhams have decided to use size 16 mannequins in their Oxford Street windows:

Image from metro.co.uk

Signs next to the mannequins, which will be wearing the recently launched Principles by Ben de Lisi range, will ask customers: "I'm a size 16. Do you want to see more of me?". If people decide that they do, the mannequins will be rolled out across more stores. Personally, I think this is pretty great to raise this issue. Also, they've done it smack bang in the middle of London Fashion Week, which is very clever of them; every year there's a debate about the size of catwalk models and this is sure to stir some debate.

However, I do have a small qualm. It's great that the majority of women are now being represented in one of Britain's largest department stores (can you believe that the average for UK women is a size 14-16? I feel like everyone's so damn skinny these days), but a small voice is saying that maybe, using size 16 mannequins will mean it's OK to be a size 16. Which, you can argue it is, but also, you can argue it isn't. It depends on your height/weight etc - but if I was a size 16, I'd be obsese. (I'm 5ft4.) I don't really want to be encouraged to be a size 16 - I already have enough trouble with cakes etc! Sometimes I like to look at mannequins and although I feel a bit depressed, it makes me want to keep myself slim(ish). Is that just me? There are of course lots of plus sized shops out there, Evans being the obvious, and they already use larger mannequins. Maybe this is just a rant at my feeling of Britain 'casualising' itself (I made that word up, ha) - think Ugg boots (more like 'Ugh' boots, they're so disgusting and unfeminine) and tracksuits/loungewear/PJs on women more and more these days. And having size 16 mannequins sort of says 'Look, it's ok to let yourself go!' What happened to aspiring to be well groomed, looking after yourself, healthy, fit, and an ideal, curvy weight? I'd say size 12 is more appropriate. It's not skin and bones skinny and it's not unfit muffin top. You know? That's more an inner thought/rambling than my final say on the matter. I'm still happy this has happened; mannequins should represent the minority, after all.

The main positive thing that this will do is inspire debate, and enable people to question why size 8-10 is standard in shop windows. This is a good thing. People come in all shapes and sizes. Especially, as I said, during LFW.

Mark Fast famously uses size 12 models on his catwalk shows and I think they look great:

Taken from Topshop Inside Out

The model in the middle is a size 12 and a University student; she looks amazing and the perfect size for women to aspire to. Not a size 6. Mark Fast himself says he wants his clothes to fit real women so models them on real women. This image is from his new knitwear collection; click the link, it all looks ace. Could do with some of that right now, I'm uber cold.

So what do you think? Is it stupid of Debenhams to try and change the way the fashion industry works? Is it amazing and all shops should have size 16 mannequins? Is it just going to encourage women to let themselves go and accept that size 16 is what they should be? Hmmm. Let it rip.

5oup.net - My profile is featured!

A few days ago I joined 5oup, which is a creative social network, portfolio showcase site, that type of thing. Well my profile has been chosen for the 'fresh list' on there and will be displayed on the front page for the next five days!

Go take a look.

Nonsensical Spam Project: Bravo

Bonjour! Another nonsensical spam illustration for your perusal and satisfaction. Aha. This one is for the rather wonderfully stupid comment, "Bravo, this brilliant phrase is necessary just by the way". What brilliant phrase? Bravo for what exactly? and why just? Nonsense, I hear you cry. Well it is.

I wanted to do a type-y illustration this time, with lots of fun whimsy lettering. I haven't used victorian etching illustrations (copyright free! ching!) for aaages, not since my recipe book, a la look here, and I forgot how much fun they are! I wasn't entirely sure what the imagery would be for this but the grammar of the sentence just lent itself to upper-class, victorian type speaking, don't you think? So I dug out some very random, very nonsensical etchings and I think it's turned out quite well. I started with just the camel being weighed on the scales and a gramophone, then thought the gramophone speaker thing could look tres random as a ram's horns. Yes. Nonsense abounds! I think I might sneak the odd victorian strangeness into more of my work, I have a couple of books stacked full of these things that I can scan in and use. Hooray amazon.

I wasn't entirely sure of the background, I knew I needed a bit of texture but then it also looked good just plain white. I'm still not sure. I always do more. Maybe I should start doing less is more. But I like more, in general, of stuff. More stuff.

So I've just published the original comment (I keep em locked away until I actually use them).
The original comment was posted for this post right here. Which is a massive coincidence, I've just realised it's the same post I just linked to, with the victorian etchings. I didn't notice until just now. It must be fate! How weird.

You can see the other illustrations in the Nonsensical Spam Project here.

Paperchase: Mockery is Not the Highest Form of Flattery

This story has been all over twitter in the last 24 hours. It's an interesting one, and also quite alarming to the illustration community. It all centres around the accusation of plagiarism; more specifically, Paperchase (or the design studio they buy their design's from) copying an illustrator's original work. The illustrator in question is Hidden Eloise, and it's one of her characters that is a reccuring theme in her work, that seems to have been ripped off. And in my opinion, extremely obviously:

From this guardian article.

Take away all the details and focus on the girl, and she is in exactly the same pose. For god's sake, they haven't even flipped her horizontally (a classic trick which I used to use in college aaalll the time before I knew better) all they've done is added a few hair curls and change the colour of her dress.

When I read about all this, I was quite shocked that Paperchase could behave in this way. As you might now if you read my blog, I love Paperchase and shop there a lot; I always used to think it would amazing if I ever got commissioned to design something for them. Now this has come out it's very worrying. Read Hidden Eloise's blog post for the entire story, but this is the part that surprised me the most:

"...the lawyers ask me astronomical amounts of money to deal with this seriously in the courts and I suspect that is exactly the reason why Paperchase ignores me in the first place.

Since I have written to them, Paperchase made sure to put up even more items for sale with my plagiarised art! I'm sure Paperchase think that there is nothing that can make them stop. Proof is that the albums in the link above are actually freshly listed after the notebooks that I had written them about have apparently sold out!"

It seems that she contacted them with her concern, she got brushed off, couldn't afford lawyers, wrote that blog post, caused a huge stir of outrage against paperchase, and they then released a statement without informing her, which you can read here.

So it's still going on, but it's safe to say that Paperchase has had it's reputation damaged badly and many people, including illustrators, have lost faith in them. It's amusing that they have now joined Twitter themselves, it would seem in a strange attempt to stop the Twitter-storm that happened because of all this while they were absent from that social media. You can now follow them @FromPaperchase. An interesting sidenote that large companies really really need their finger on the pulse of all instant social media like this. It's really not enough to have a facebook page, or even a twitter page that never gets updated. There's no point being 'on' social media if you don't actually utilise it properly. You just look like a band-wagon-jumper-onner. I don't think this couold have been averted if Paperchase were active users of Twitter, but it certainly may not have escalated to be a Trending Topic.

The real question is why Gather No Moss (the design studio Paperchase uses) thought they could get away with blatent plagiarism like this. The beauty of the internet and the almost disease-like ease that information gets spread through social media and blogs etc, means that if an artist/musician/etc gets ripped off, someone will know someone who is following/friends with/linked to the original artist and they will find out. I see it a lot on my twitter stream: tweets saying 'Look at this, do you think this person has ripped off my style'. One of the most recent ones I saw was from Gemma Correll, who is has such a unique and distinguishable style, and is literally everywhere (seriously, that girl gets around, she must have such a business head, she's so in vogue right now), and she tweeted that someone had ripped her off and those designs were selling at Urban Outfitters! They have since dropped the shirts because of the bad publicity - something which Gemma could not have got without the use of twitter and flickr etc. It really can be an invaluable tool. She has withdrawn the image comparing the 2 designs so I can't show it here.

Plagiarism is always going to happen. It's horrible but it will. All art is inspired by other art - and you can have influences, obviously. But where is the line between influences/inspiration and direct copying? How do you develop your own style without being too influenced? Massimo Vignelli, the legendary modernist designer says:

"A personal style is like a handwriting - it happens as the byproduct of our way
of seeing things, enriched by the experiences of everything around us."

This is something I try to live by and I think sums it up perfectly. Just like the person you are as a whole has been shaped by everything that has happened to you in your life, so your art should be a complete mix and personal interpretation of everything youve ever seen, watched, drawn or made. Influences are fine. Directly copying an artist you like (or envy) is not. In this case, mockery is not the highest form of flattery.

So what happens if you don't copy another's style as a whole, but use copyrighted elements in your work? This is a continuously raging debate, especially within the field of collage; even I cut up fashion mags etc for personal work and technically, that's not allowed. That photograph is copyright owed by the photographer and you don't have permission to re-use it in commercial work. But so many do. Collage by nature is an assemblage of recycled imagery. A massive grey area. But let's look at the recent Shepherd Fairey debacle, which is still rumbling on:

Taken from this post at the AOI blog, read it.

In this case, the original photographer is suing Fairey for use of this photograph (left) without permission for his election poster (right). It's a massively famous image but now it has this complicated law case around it. The whole case is detailed better here. You can see the source material clearly is this photograph, and as the AOI say:

"At the AOI, we frequently get asked these sort of questions. If I use a
photograph as source material, then am I violating copyright? The answer is YES everytime. Even if you treat the photo, distort it and
colourise it as Fairey has then you can still get significantly stung a few
years down the line."

So, to sum it all up, copyright is super tricky. The best thing to do is, if you know you are copying someone's style/elements of work, just don't do it. Especially in this age of instant internet. You will get found out it seems. I wish loads of luck to Hidden Eloise and hope it gets sorted out. It's just sad it's come to this and Paperchase have worked with a company that obviously plagiarises. Perhaps in their defense they were completely oblivious, perhaps it's Gather No Moss we should be angry at. But really, who knows. It just shouldn't have happened in the first place.

New Work: Editorial Illustration

This was a piece I did for an article I found in The Times, written by Giles Coren called 'You've never heard of Paddington Basin, the little sink from darkest Peru?'.

The article has a few different tangents to it, but the one I focussed on was the trouble Giles is having with his new resolution - B.O.O.M, or Back Off On Meat when eating out at restaurants, especially when having Dim Sum at a restaurant in the newly developed Paddington Basin. Hence the title of the article - the original illustration was a take on that title, with Paddington etc, but I wanted to steer away from that and do something more food related. So I just did a spread of dim sum with a nice bit of Pak Choi as the main focus - relating to what the article says about trying to order lots more vegetables.

It's not my favourite piece I've ever done, I think the colours are too pastel-y and it's just not that visually interesting. Here's it superimposed into the original article for context:


I've realised I need to do a lot more editorials for my portfolio, as that's the area I'm trying to get work in. So I've been scouring newspapers and magazines etc for interesting articles to illustrate. It helps if I get someone else to cut out the original illustration (which was actually commissioned for the article) so that I'm not influenced by it. So it's not a dig at the original illustrator, thinking that I can do better than what they did etc, it's just a lot easier if I take existing articles and create an illustration for them - it's the only thing I can do until I get real commissions to fill my portfolio.

So I'm aiming to do one or two new pieces today :)